Mar 9th

Up early and out with my camera to take pictures in the brick fields round the back of Gitarama. Even at seven on a Sunday morning there’s a couple of dozen people working; their clothes are filthy from the clay and contrast with a stream of other people who are on their way to Kabgayi cathedral for Mass. Everyone says hello; it’s a funny place for a muzungu to be, let alone so early in the morning; I think they wonder what I’m up to. One older man is kneading his mix of clay and water, and I greet him in French and start talking. He’s amazed that a muzungu wants to pass the time of day with him and readily agrees to be photographed. His wife is sitting on a pile of dried bricks nearby; she covers most of her face with a shawl and I think they’re probably muslims. He shows me how to make a brick by hand using a wooden mould, and I take a couple of quick snaps. He’s chuffed to bits when he sees his face in a picture and calls his wife over. Then several other people also working come over to look. Their hands and clothes are caked with grey clay and I start to get worried that someone will grab the camera and drop it in the mud. But I escape and walk on a few yards to where there is a kiln. It is smoking well; obviously the bottom is being fired. But at the same time there’s two makeshift ladders up it and a dozen or so youngsters throwing dried bricks onto the top ready for firing. I ask if I can take a photo; they stop work and agree but then ask for money. Everyone wants to see the pictures I’ve taken. I give them a hundred francs (10p) and leave them to squabble over how to divide it. If I stay any longer they might want a hundred each and I’m not getting into that!

I take a roundabout way home through fields and up to the cathedral at Kabgayi. One mass is just ending and people are waiting for the next. The service is broadcast outside the church; presumably on occasions there are too many in the congregation to fit inside. I’m greeted by a lovely bunch of young children from Gahogo; they remember me from my visit to their school, and two of them even remember my name and can say it accurately! They’re beautiful, well brought up children and it’s a pleasure to speak with them.

Tom and I have a planning session to finalise arrangements for my birthday do. Food is OK; invites must be emailed a.s.a.p; music is going to be a problem unless I can reboot my iPod. Spend the rest of the day chillin’, doing household chores and preparing food. I know my schedule for next week, but not looking forward to the usual battle to get a moto at a reasonable price.

Best thing about today – the man’s delight at seeing his picture on my camera
Worst thing – nothing really. Just a nice, easy day with no stress.